The Azores

The last year has been a whirlwind. In November, I decided to leave my position at MC. While I enjoyed parts of working there, it wasn't a good fit for me. I was feeling very stressed and my migraines were increasing as a result. More than anything, I really missed teaching. I had some limited opportunities to teach at MC, and it was becoming clear to me that it would be an outlying part of my job.

Shortly after finishing my final semester at MC, I left for a week of holiday with a friend. We had planned the holiday over the summer, and scheduled for school holidays. Sara and I packed our bags and headed to the Azores, an autonomous region of Portugal. We spent a week on São Miguel Island, the largest of the islands in this archipelago. The weather wasn't great by Azores standards, but for those of us escaping winter in Pennsylvania, it was a nice break! It was incredibly humid though! My swimsuit didn't try for the entire week. (I ended up using a hairdryer on it to draw some moisture out before packing it in my backpack!)

Despite some stormy days and incredible wind, we managed to do quite a lot. We went whalewatching, during which we didn't see any whales, but we saw a gorgeous double rainbow over the water!

We booked a few jeep tours, which let us go off the beaten path and enabled a wonderful combination of education and adventure. We had amazing tour guides, who knew their history and biology well.

As you can imagine, I literally took hundreds of pictures, and selecting a few for this post has been difficult! The Azores are volcanic islands, and the volcanic rock in some areas contributes to the green appearance of some of the lakes. Others are the most amazing shades of blue. 

The picture above is overlooking Sete Cidades, which is a gorgeous spot where two lakes, one blue and one green, meet. This picture doesn't do it justice! It is stunning to see.

We rented a tiny little car for one terrifying day. I was the driver. Between the fog and the steep inclines of every narrow road, it was an experience I will never forget! We wove our way from one end of the island to the other, determined to make the most of the experience. Sara and I both realized we are very dependent on Google Maps! Reading a traditional map while zipping around sharp turns is an art form we have not learnt! 

On one of our last days, we tasted fofa, a sweet treat that resembles an eclair. Warm from the kitchen, it was delicious with a coffee!

With each day, Sara and I continued to be amazed at the beauty of this island. The roads are lined with hydrangeas, many of the roads wind around stunning cliffs by the ocean, and the vivid green of the land is almost overwhelming, even in winter. I can only imagine how magnificent this must look in the bright light of summer.

I seldom revisit vacation destinations, but I can see myself returning to the Azores, to explore other islands. It was truly beautiful, and my first taste of Portugal, although it wasn't continental Portugal! It was wonderful to hear Portuguese being spoken. It rekindled my interest in Portuguese, which was first sparked when visiting my parents in Moz in 2012. 

My vacation ended in a flash. Our return was extended by one day due to a missed connection. We arrived back and two days later, I resumed my teaching job with CC, teaching English as a Second Language to adults. Walking into my makeshift classrooms felt like taking a deep breath of fresh air. Despite the uncertainty of what would come next in terms of a permanent job, I knew I had made the right choice.

I.Love.Brazil.

A week ago, we were leaving Newark for Brazil.  It has been an incredible week.

I'm so thankful for the group.  Jan (my academic advisor and the faculty member leading the trip) and her husband Rod are doing a great job as leaders.  The students are a wonderful bunch.  They have really committed themselves to a challenging first week and have bonded well.  We are also blessed with some fantastic Brazilian contacts (through Jan) on the ground who have been the driving force behind the trip.

We spent Tuesday at a prestigious high school, participating in two chapels and spending every break with students of various ages.  Kids in Brazil either go to school in the morning or the afternoon, so we had two different groups of students that we interacted with.  Once they got over their shyness, an incredible mass of Brazilians huddled around each of us, hoping to talk to the "norte americanos".  Normally, one or two of the kids in the group spoke English pretty well and would translate for their friends.  Before too long, we realized that EVERYONE in Brazil knows at least one word in English: selfie!  Almost every student wanted to take a self portrait with us! :) Then of course, we also needed group pictures and on it went...This was repeated at the next two schools on Wednesday and Thursday and Friday morning.

Tuesday afternoon was spent at an orphanage.  One of the teachers, who has been planning our trip, is currently teaching a "community service" class.  He takes students from this upper class high school on a weekly basis to this orphanage to serve the kids there.  It is really cool to see the way these high school students jump right into help.  I think their teacher is a great role model for them.  The picture below is of Joyce and me after an afternoon of face-painting.  Joyce is a high school student who speaks English very well and has a very sweet personality.  I've enjoyed getting to know her.

We all have been getting mass requests to be friends on facebook with the students!  I have added over 100 new friends on facebook since getting to Brazil!  At this point, I think it is easier to add everyone.

Starting on Wednesday, we became the teachers.  We decided on pairs before leaving the USA and were supposed to prepare two lessons that we could teach that were adaptable to a variety of ages and levels. This is quite a challenge for the MC students, none of whom are English education majors.  (Thanks to this trip, a number of them have talked about declaring a TESOL minor though!)  Due to Jan's busy schedule, I worked with the students to help them refine their lessons.  Everyone was a little anxious on Wednesday morning.

All went well!  We got used to the siren of a bell (seriously, their bell at the end of class sounds like an air raid warning) and the fact that everyone would mob us at the breaks between classes.  Each pair taught at least one lesson in the morning and one in the afternoon, in addition to assisting in two other classes and doing a large group lesson with Jan.  My partner Sara and I taught a lesson on body parts, using Simon (Sara!) Says, the song Head, Shoulders, Knees, and Toes, and the song Father Abraham.  We had a great time.

Friday, we returned to the same high school, this time to teach English rather than do the chapel.  It was so much fun to see some of the same kids again.  However, by this point, I had hardly any voice left!

Friday afternoon, we rushed home, packed frantically, and left for a camp outside of the city.  Jan's father built the camp and it has continued to be used for church camps.  This weekend was for youth, which in Brazil seems to mean anyone 15 and older who is still single.  I'll have to write more about the camp later!  :)

More proverbs!

I have always loved proverbs.  I think they can tell you a lot about a culture, which is why I've enjoyed finding the proverbs credited as Zimbabwean in this little calendar.  Here are some of my favorites:

Every elephant has to carry its own trunk.

*****

The heart never reaches where it longs to be.

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Politeness is the key to the heart of people.

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Treat the days well and they will treat you well.

*****

A careful hyena lives a long time

*****

To climb a mountain, you zigzag.

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Place a grinding store where you come from and where you go to.

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If you begin by walking slowly, you will run at sunset.

*****

These last two are listed as African, not attributed to one particular country:

Habit is a tall mountain, hard to overcome or pull down.

******

Be wiser than other people but don't tell them.

Adult ESL

I can tell that ESL (English as a Second Language) is going to keep me on my toes.  All last week, I only had three students (the same three students) turn up to class.  Considering I had ten on the register, that was a little surprising.

One student told me she wouldn't be at class today because she had a doctor's appointment.  So, I planned my lesson, expecting two students.  On the way to class, another student's husband called, telling me that his wife wouldn't be at ESL class due to a hospital appointment.  I got to my location thinking I would have one, perhaps zero, students.

By nine, I had four new students who had not been in class last week, one new student added to my register because the night class wasn't fitting her work schedule, and also my one returning student from last week.  My lesson plan went out the window.  I'm not sure what is going on with the three students I have yet to meet.  I suppose that tomorrow I might have eleven students!

I sent a text to my school advisor, telling her what happened.  Her response: "Welcome to adult ESL!  It's a good thing you are flexible!" :)

In other news, tomorrow (Wednesday) will be my first day at Job #3.  I'll be working a few afternoons and evenings a week at the welcome desk of a local gym.  I have a lot of hours my first week because of orientation, so I better get back to my homework now!  I will teach from 9-11 tomorrow morning, and then work at the gym from 5-9 p.m.

First week as an ESL Teacher

I am seated on my veranda, enjoying the remaining rays of sunshine from the day.  It has been gorgeous, not really warm, but gorgeous none the less.  I've got my afternoon cup of coffee, sunglasses on, and life seems good.

Yesterday (Monday) marked the official start of my ESL career.  I've been involved in ESL for a few years now, but this is the *OFFICIAL* beginning!  Monday was my first staff meeting before the start of classes.  I went to the main offices, trying to hide the fact that I was feeling woefully unprepared for my first class.  The other teachers all seem very nice.  Four of us are new this term.  It was at this meeting that I finally found out the essentials, such as how many students I have (and their names!) and the location I was to teach at Tuesday morning!  I think I'm starting to realize that not everyone in this field feels the need to be hyper-prepared.

After the meeting, I drove back across the Susquehanna to meet with my advisor.  I am blessed with the most incredible advisor I could ask for.  She exceeds advisor and becomes mentor in so many ways.  Dr. E offered to help me by looking over my lesson plans the weekend prior.  Since said lesson plans felt so slapdash to me, I asked if I could come by her office to talk it over in person.

We didn't get right to lesson plans but had some time to chat first.  I think we connect well because we are both TCKs (Third Culture Kids) and additionally, she has raised children overseas and says that I remind her of her daughter.  Given the stories she has told me, we do sound quite similar and I think Dr. E and my mother could start a support group for mothers of Type A TCKs!

Dr. E answered my many questions about my lesson plan and how I should spend the first day of class.   It certainly helped me to feel a little more at ease, but I had some residual butterflies.  It helped to know that I have the support of my family and numerous friends!

I got to my teaching location about 45 minutes early!  I teach a site in H-burg, and I wasn't entirely certain of the location.  One of the other teachers, the one with the key!, had said she would arrive at 8:15 or so if those of us who are new wanted to look at our classrooms and have extra time to set up.  I found the building easily and she showed me to my fairly bare classroom.  Picture chairs, a table, and a whiteboard!   Thankfully, I had my own dry erase markers in my teacher kit!

Classes were to start at 9.  By 8:55, I had two students in my classroom.  I was expecting ten.  I went ahead and started my personal introduction and by 9:10, a third student had arrived.  We had changed the start date of class, and I think more students will show up tomorrow after receiving a reminder call today!

Our unit this term is "Friends and Family."  It is the perfect unit to start off with a new Beginner class, because it is all about relationships!  I took pictures of my family and used those as my introduction of myself but also to introduce the vocabulary.  If you aren't familiar with ESL, it may surprise you to hear  what "Beginner" truly means!  My vocabulary list included "mother, father, brother, sister, grandfather, grandmother, brother in law..." You get the picture!  This is a very "beginner" class.

Goodness, I already love the three students though!  We took some time to talk about their families and their backgrounds.  I can't wait to get to know them more through the course.  Two of the ladies are quite good at conversational English and not very confident in their reading ability.  The other lady is a wonderful reader but is very hesitant to speak.

After class, I had to go over to our offices to get some more textbooks for my students.  Then, a good friend took me out for lunch to celebrate a wonderful first day of teaching!  After that, my teaching continued with a few hours of homeschooling a friend's children so she could take a break.  I don't mind a few hours here and there but it solidifies for me that I love teaching adults.  I'm not meant to be an elementary teacher!

It's time for homework and tomorrow's lesson plan!  Thanks to all of you who were praying for me today!

I'm told this is an apartment, not a flat :)

My sweet little corner of M-burg is starting to feel like home.  I've loved being able to decorate and pull much of my Africa stuff out of storage.  Fortunately, my roommate also has a connection to Africa, and she doesn't mind the theme of our living room.  

My room has a few very special elements.  My cedar chest (the right had side of the picture above), my bed frame, and my bookshelf (not in the picture above) were all handmade by my grandfather.  The quilt on my bed is a pattern called "Around the World," and it was handmade by my grandmother.  

My kitchen is equipped with family memories as well.  My silverware belonged to my great-grandparents.  My glasses were my great-great-aunt's.  My flatware were my grandmother's.  I have a pitcher and five glasses that were a wedding gift to my great-grandmother in 1924.  I have dinnerware that was my great-grandmother's "everyday" dishes.  The table in our kitchen was used by my grandfather and his siblings.

I didn't think that I was a person who liked antiques.  I'm not sure that I am even now.  But I love the history.  There are only things, and as such I want to hold them lightly.  But in an age when so much is disposable, there is something wonderful about using a spoon made in 1887.  

Resettlement

Three weeks ago, I was enjoying 95 degree weather and the warmth of Mozambican culture.  I've traded palm trees for pine.  Pennsylvania has experienced its first snow and the weather outside, while not frightful, is definitely chilly.

I love airplanes and flying but I wonder if they have hindered our appreciation for the transition between one place to another.  I've never crossed the Atlantic by any means other than an airplane.

It is a bit surreal.  In January, I would have said, "I live in London."  On the last day of January, I boarded a plane and seven hours later, I was in the USA and I had officially moved.  The trip from Moz took a full day of travel.  The transition is more startling.  It only took a day to go from one place where clean water is scarce to another place where we are focused on buying excess material goods with our excess income.  

A longer journey would not change the differences between locales, but perhaps the time to reflect would change the traveler.   

Planes come equipped with a personalized entertainment system for each seat.  (As a child, I can remember having a TV screen for the entire cabin.  If you didn't like the movie, you listened to music or slept.)  You might watch movies for the duration of a 19 hour flight from South Africa to the USA.  An ocean liner today can cross the Atlantic in a week.  When Henry Hudson crossed from Amsterdam to New York (in 1609), the crossing took two months.  

Imagine a relocation journey taking two months.  Days of ocean and waves and no land in sight.  No entertainment system.  No wi-fi.  No seclusion except in thought.  As an introspective person, I love the idea of having days to just look at the waves and the clouds and simply ponder.  Time to consider where I've been and wonder where I am going.  Time to write in my journal until I run out of words or pages.  

I cannot explain my thankfulness that this past year has included time to consider my options.  Had I needed to go from my last job, which finished in May, to looking for another job immediately, I would have been incredibly frazzled.  Instead, through generosity and grace, I was able to take the time necessary to consider my next steps.  I've been back in Pennsylvania for three weeks.  In those three weeks, I've purchased a vehicle, gotten car insurance (for the first time on my own!), made decisions about where I will live, applied to academic programs, started job applications, took my computer to be fixed (which isn't possible but I am going to attempt some data recovery), and am considering my options in the areas of phones, computers, and more practical things like mattresses and winter coats.  While it is sometimes overwhelming to make all of these decisions, it is possible because I have had time to consider my options, needs, and my Provider.  

The title for this blog, The View from a Thousand Hills, comes from Psalm 50:10.  The Lord says, "For all the animals of the forest are mine, and I own the cattle on a thousand hills."  This verse reminds me that my future is in good hands, and those hands are not my own.  

Thanksgiving

Through the years that I have been away from family and/or overseas on my own, I have realized that Thanksgiving is a very special holiday to me, perhaps even more so than Christmas.  I'm very glad that I booked my ticket to arrive back in PA before Thanksgiving.  My family in M-burg made the drive down to the family farm for the day.  Although a part of our family is still in Moz, we were almost all together.  

We had the traditional feast, and the usual nap time afterwards.  Once revived, the kids needed to expend some energy.  Anna was thrilled to find out that Kolton and Emme have a "neigh neigh."  Said "neigh neigh" is an elderly miniature horse named Molly.  Molly has lost some teeth and one eye, but she doesn't seem her life of grazing and the occasional pony ride.  

As we put the kiddos on Molly for a walk around, the sun started to set.  It was that perfect time of evening when the world looks golden and life feels uncomplicated.  I love those moments.  It was wonderful to have the time with family.

Anna giving Emme a kiss

Never give up praying. And when you pray, keep alert and be thankful.

Colossians 4:2

Farewell to the tropics

Today is my last full day in Mozambique.  I'm surprised by how sad I feel to say goodbye.  The church had a special place in the service to say goodbye to me.  I was given several really thoughtful gifts and during the process, I started crying.  I think that was actually a source of great entertainment for the church, although not in a malicious manner.

The community pool for my parent's little complex has been a source of much joy for me.  In the last few weeks, the pool's temperatures have soared to perfection.  It may not be an ideal pool by American standards (considering the water is very chlorinated and usually has a variety of palm fronds, ants, and occasionally a roach floating in its depths.  But I'll miss it.  I'll miss the little Bronze Mannikins who line up side by side on a branch of the almond tree to catch the last rays of the day.  I'll miss the pink blossoms of the frangipani.  I'll miss the bliss of warm water on a hot day.

 

My parent's house has been home for four months.  I keep snapping "just one more picture," wanting to capture people, places and memories in megapixels for preservation.  I have mementos taped into my journal to accompany my written notes and souvenirs packed into my suitcases.  But the best parts will still be here in Mozambique, waiting until I come back, whenever ever that may be.  In the meantime, I'm so thankful that I will be able to picture my folks at home and at work.  Mozambique and her people will have a special place in my heart.  

 

The next step of my journey will begin tomorrow.  I have a sneaking feeling that the East Coast of the USA will offer weather a teensy bit colder than I like.  Although goodbyes are making me sad today, with every goodbye there is another hello.  The hello at the end of this journey will be my US family :)  See you the other side of the Pond!

African women amaze me with their ability to carry items on their heads.  Most of these pictures aren't clear because I was taking them out the window of a fast moving vehicle (Dad was driving), but I love them nonetheless.

This is my favorite!

While out in a village, I saw a girl carrying her hoe in from the field, balancing it across her head!  Although I've grown up with images such as these, I continue to be impressed.  I think I'll have to stick with a suitcase with wheels.

Ferry across the Shire

Our journey of the past week required a river crossing.  The Shire River isn't very wide at the particular point we crossed, but it would be during the rainy season.  The surrounding area is gorgeous, as you can see from these pictures.

This picture above explains my comment in an earlier post about the Beira Hillbillies.  We packed every possible space, both in the car and tied to the roof rack!  We sat three people in the front, three in the second row, and two in the back along with luggage for all of us for five days, tents, sleeping bags, two 50kg bags of rice, teaching supplies, and an accordion. (On the way back, we didn't have the two bags of rice, but we gained two huge stalks of bananas and four (live) chickens.)

My parents!

The ferry can accommodate four vehicles at a time, with some careful parking.  The men use a hand-crank to move the ferry along the cables.  The river isn't wide, but the time to cross the river depends on the number of cars and the weight of the cargo. The ferry costs 80 meticais per vehicle (roughly $3).  

For smaller items and groups, a canoe presents a faster option.  Crossing the river in a dugout takes about five minutes.  As muzungus, we paid about $1 per person, but I doubt everyone else pays that rate! :)

I recently read a book about David Livingstone and suggested it to Mom.  She was reading it on this trip.  She brought a passage to my attention that mentioned Livingstone's crossing the "crocodile infested Shire River."  Our crossing didn't involve either crocodiles or hippos due to the activity in the area, but they still swim in the Shire.  On our return trip, I was offered a change to ride in one of the dugouts.  Of course I said yes!  

My Livingstone Moment

I felt the thrill of history in my brief canoe trip.  Livingstone probably had a few rides in the same kind of canoe in his day, on the very same river. 

Livingstone said, "“If you have men who will only come if they know there is a good road, I don't want them. I want men who will come if there is no road at all.” He also once stated, "I will go anywhere, provided it be forward."  I think I would have liked him.

The last ten days are flashes of memories of endless dirt coating my skin, staring children, a river crossing in a dugout canoe, African sunrises and sunsets, a pet warthog named Pumba, wall to wall people in a small brick church, mutumbu (goat intestines) and rice, and the Beira Hillbillies (I'll explain that later!).  I scribbled pages and pages in my journal as I sat on a painful reed mat in a small village in the province of Tete.  

I'll write more in the days to come, but for now, here a few glimpses.

Our dinner being prepared.  

A friend had peeled a stick of sugar cane for me to eat.  I love sugar cane, but it was challenging to eat gracefully especially with a group of twenty kids just sitting and watching me.

Dad playing with the kids.

Dugout canoe crossing the Shire River

Watching.  This is a small crowd.  At this point, the other thirty kids were off playing football.  

Sunday, Sunday.

This week has gotten off to quite the start.

We began with a celebration.  Our church has a newly completed tin roof.  I can't imagine putting a roof on a building when the first task is to find a ladder.  Dad was finally able to find a ladder in town that could be borrowed/rented for a minimal fee.

We also had several special program elements to our service, with presentations of different certificates of completion and Communion.  Church lasted nearly four hours.  Once church ended, we had the usual chit chat outside of the church.  After that, we headed to the car to go home for lunch, only to see this:

Clearly, lunch was a little bit delayed.  I thought it was wonderful that several of the church men, all in their Sunday best, didn't hesitate to help change the tire.  Eventually, the younger generation became curious and came over to check out the action.  

The spare was put on with minimal difficulty, but the spare needed air because it has a slow leak.  So, we went back to town and stopped at one place to see if the damaged tire could be fixed.  Then we went a second place, because apparently we stopped at the wrong place and needed to go further down the road.  The guys at the second place told us the tire cannot be fixed, but they were able to put air in the spare tire for us.

The only challenge is that Dad was to be leaving early Monday morning to go north for a week of teaching with a group.  Most places are closed on Sundays.  It's really foolish to drive anywhere around here without a spare.  So, he woke up a little earlier on Monday and left the city a little later in order to get a new tire.  A new tire here costs about $290.  Isn't that insane????  We have asked around about the price, but that does seem to the standard price.  It would be possible to get a "used" tire, but given how rough the roads can be, I doubt there would be much benefit.  

Igreja/Church

Church was (mercifully) much cooler this week.  "Cooler" is a relative term, consider it was in the 80 degree range, rather than the 90+ degrees we experienced last week.  (The church roof is tin, by the way.  It conducts the heat wonderfully.)  Our two churches were combined again this week, due to a special visit from our church leader in Maputo.

I really enjoyed church this week.  Mom and I "rebelled" and sat with the women, rather than at the front of the church.  The front of the church is reserved for the pastors and special guests.  Out of respect, Mom would normally be sat there as well.  She and I both feel more comfortable sitting among the women and this week, we decided to so.  No one seemed too shocked by it, so hopefully we can continue.  The sermon was given in Portuguese and translated into Ndau.  I think one of the men at the front was also whispering a translation in English to Dad.  Mom was able to explain some of the service to me.

After church, we received an invitation to a special church lunch.  Our two church congregations piled into four vehicles.  Our vehicle seats ten theoretically, but in practice, many more can fit!  Mom and I sat in the front row next to Dad, who was driving.  Two of our pastors sat in the second row, along with the one pastor's wife (who is 8 months pregnant) and their two boys (about 8 and 6).  In the back, there are four jump seats.  On those seats sat another five women and three children.  One of those women was also about six months pregnant.  The other two vehicles of similar size were equally packed, and the rest of the church (most of the youth) climbed into the truck below.

There were probably about seventy of us for the luncheon.  It was largely a family get together, for the guest from Maputo was the father of our host.  Manuel, our host, has a thriving construction business.  He speaks English very well and was wearing a Manchester United shirt.  I pointed that out, teasing him for his support of Man U.  That got a big laugh, and he returned the teasing when I told him that my loyalty has by default been to Arsenal.  

We had a real feast prepared for us, which we ate under a tent with a nice cool breeze.  I shocked several people by not taking any of the meat options.  It is never easy to explain being a vegetarian in Africa.  It always amazes how many mounds of rice are prepared and how quickly they disappear.  

All in all, it was a lovely afternoon.  We were the first to depart, getting home at about 4 pm.  It was a perfectly enjoyable day.

"primeira aula de Inglês" First English Class

Mom and I taught our first English class together on Saturday.

We set up the class very prettily, with our chairs neatly lined up, a copybook and pen in place for each student.  We had printed a page for each student with basic questions and greetings.  Many church members had been asking when we would be starting our class.  We did not know how many students to expect.

One student attended.  Incidentally, we were having the English class on his veranda!  Zacarias told us that he would announce the start of the English class on Sunday (the following day), but we had thought it had been announced that class would begin this Saturday.  We decided to chalk this up to another language snafu and teach our sole student.  Zacarias has been very eager to learn English and he delighted in having not one, but two English teachers.  

When I saw him at church the following day, he was very eager to shake my hand and say in English, "Why hello, how are you today?"