Resettlement

Three weeks ago, I was enjoying 95 degree weather and the warmth of Mozambican culture.  I've traded palm trees for pine.  Pennsylvania has experienced its first snow and the weather outside, while not frightful, is definitely chilly.

I love airplanes and flying but I wonder if they have hindered our appreciation for the transition between one place to another.  I've never crossed the Atlantic by any means other than an airplane.

It is a bit surreal.  In January, I would have said, "I live in London."  On the last day of January, I boarded a plane and seven hours later, I was in the USA and I had officially moved.  The trip from Moz took a full day of travel.  The transition is more startling.  It only took a day to go from one place where clean water is scarce to another place where we are focused on buying excess material goods with our excess income.  

A longer journey would not change the differences between locales, but perhaps the time to reflect would change the traveler.   

Planes come equipped with a personalized entertainment system for each seat.  (As a child, I can remember having a TV screen for the entire cabin.  If you didn't like the movie, you listened to music or slept.)  You might watch movies for the duration of a 19 hour flight from South Africa to the USA.  An ocean liner today can cross the Atlantic in a week.  When Henry Hudson crossed from Amsterdam to New York (in 1609), the crossing took two months.  

Imagine a relocation journey taking two months.  Days of ocean and waves and no land in sight.  No entertainment system.  No wi-fi.  No seclusion except in thought.  As an introspective person, I love the idea of having days to just look at the waves and the clouds and simply ponder.  Time to consider where I've been and wonder where I am going.  Time to write in my journal until I run out of words or pages.  

I cannot explain my thankfulness that this past year has included time to consider my options.  Had I needed to go from my last job, which finished in May, to looking for another job immediately, I would have been incredibly frazzled.  Instead, through generosity and grace, I was able to take the time necessary to consider my next steps.  I've been back in Pennsylvania for three weeks.  In those three weeks, I've purchased a vehicle, gotten car insurance (for the first time on my own!), made decisions about where I will live, applied to academic programs, started job applications, took my computer to be fixed (which isn't possible but I am going to attempt some data recovery), and am considering my options in the areas of phones, computers, and more practical things like mattresses and winter coats.  While it is sometimes overwhelming to make all of these decisions, it is possible because I have had time to consider my options, needs, and my Provider.  

The title for this blog, The View from a Thousand Hills, comes from Psalm 50:10.  The Lord says, "For all the animals of the forest are mine, and I own the cattle on a thousand hills."  This verse reminds me that my future is in good hands, and those hands are not my own.  

Thanksgiving

Through the years that I have been away from family and/or overseas on my own, I have realized that Thanksgiving is a very special holiday to me, perhaps even more so than Christmas.  I'm very glad that I booked my ticket to arrive back in PA before Thanksgiving.  My family in M-burg made the drive down to the family farm for the day.  Although a part of our family is still in Moz, we were almost all together.  

We had the traditional feast, and the usual nap time afterwards.  Once revived, the kids needed to expend some energy.  Anna was thrilled to find out that Kolton and Emme have a "neigh neigh."  Said "neigh neigh" is an elderly miniature horse named Molly.  Molly has lost some teeth and one eye, but she doesn't seem her life of grazing and the occasional pony ride.  

As we put the kiddos on Molly for a walk around, the sun started to set.  It was that perfect time of evening when the world looks golden and life feels uncomplicated.  I love those moments.  It was wonderful to have the time with family.

Anna giving Emme a kiss

Never give up praying. And when you pray, keep alert and be thankful.

Colossians 4:2

On the Road

I think I've started a post about ten times and each time, I've just not finished it.  There are a number of reasons, lack of time, lack of means (I knocked my laptop to the the tile floor by accident while still in Mozambique and it is not turning on!) and a few other things, but either way, it's time to start writing again!

I can hardly believe that two weeks ago today, I was attending my last church service in Moz.  Various church people had presents for me and presented them to me in front of the entire congregation.  By the time they were finished, I had tears streaming down my face.  These are good people.  I have been blessed to get to know them. 

I left Moz on the following Monday.  The trip from Beira to Joburg to DC took a full 24 hours, plus a seven hour time change.  Normally, I have no problems sleeping on planes, but this 18 hour flight, sleep eluded me.  There was a surprisingly bad selection of films and a rather negative woman in the seat behind me (who didn't mind sharing her opinions rather loudly with her husband and those of us in a ten seat radius.)  Aside from that, the flight was uneventful.  I like adventures, but in terms of plane rides, uneventful is a good quality!  

It was wonderful to see family once back in PA.  I swapped my swim suits and sandals for sweaters and slippers, but the fall leaves are gorgeous and I love sitting by a fire on a chilly evening.  It doesn't hurt that there is usually a little Jack Russell Terrier who is happy to sit with me.

Farewell to the tropics

Today is my last full day in Mozambique.  I'm surprised by how sad I feel to say goodbye.  The church had a special place in the service to say goodbye to me.  I was given several really thoughtful gifts and during the process, I started crying.  I think that was actually a source of great entertainment for the church, although not in a malicious manner.

The community pool for my parent's little complex has been a source of much joy for me.  In the last few weeks, the pool's temperatures have soared to perfection.  It may not be an ideal pool by American standards (considering the water is very chlorinated and usually has a variety of palm fronds, ants, and occasionally a roach floating in its depths.  But I'll miss it.  I'll miss the little Bronze Mannikins who line up side by side on a branch of the almond tree to catch the last rays of the day.  I'll miss the pink blossoms of the frangipani.  I'll miss the bliss of warm water on a hot day.

 

My parent's house has been home for four months.  I keep snapping "just one more picture," wanting to capture people, places and memories in megapixels for preservation.  I have mementos taped into my journal to accompany my written notes and souvenirs packed into my suitcases.  But the best parts will still be here in Mozambique, waiting until I come back, whenever ever that may be.  In the meantime, I'm so thankful that I will be able to picture my folks at home and at work.  Mozambique and her people will have a special place in my heart.  

 

The next step of my journey will begin tomorrow.  I have a sneaking feeling that the East Coast of the USA will offer weather a teensy bit colder than I like.  Although goodbyes are making me sad today, with every goodbye there is another hello.  The hello at the end of this journey will be my US family :)  See you the other side of the Pond!

One week remaining in this land of sunshine and mangoes.

We we given some mangoes from a friend's tree.  As a child living in Zim, I didn't really like mangoes. I started to enjoy them when studying in Egypt.  Tasting these, I can't believe I missed out on all those mangoes as a little girl!

Yesterday at church, Pastori Z announced that I would be leaving.  He challenged the church to bring things to help me remember Mozambique.  I just hope no one hands me a chicken next Sunday!

One woman came forward to give her gift and handed Pastori 200 MZN for me.  I didn't even recognize the woman as someone I have met before.  Two hundred meticais is about $7, which may not seem like much.  However, it seems huge when you consider that most families only have one family member (the husband) working outside of the home.  I don't know the details for every family in our church, but most of the men seem to make about 1000 MZN a week, which is about $36. I hate to think about taking a portion of a family's income, especially when that income might be so small.  

Another man came up to me after church.  He speaks English well and he wanted to ask me what I liked, so that he could be sure to bring me something I liked.  I told him I like everything but that having been in Mozambique for four months was enough of a wonderful present.  I really don't need anything more.  He grinned and said he was so glad I've enjoyed it.  Now it is up to the church to give me small things to show others how wonderful Mozambique is and to remember my time here.  That wasn't quite the intent of my comment, but his face showed his joy at hearing how much I've loved being here.

The best parts of the last four months cannot be packed into a suitcase.  They are the people I've met and the gorgeous places I've seen.  The memories aren't all beautiful.  Some of them bring tears to my eyes and make me want to change the world so that life here isn't so hard.  But those memories are just as special as the memories of golden beaches, roads with craters instead of potholes, and seeing how green the country becomes after a few rainy days.  They are all Mozambique.  



It had been five years since I was last in the gorgeous Matopos Hills.  Two weeks ago, I made a trip back to what still feels like home to me.  I truly think the Matopos are one of the most beautiful places on earth.  It felt so good to climb about on the rocks again, although I know I'm a lot less agile on them than I was as a child!

 

 

 

For those of you who are also familiar with this gorgeous part of the world, I'm sure you can tell how badly they need rain.  The cattle's bones are all too prominent and the dam is very low.  On my last day there, we did get some rain, but they will need much more to last through the year.  If only some of the rain from Hurricane Sandy could be sent to Zim!  Please, keep praying for rain for Zim. 

It has been odd to read about and see pictures of the effects of Hurricane Sandy on the East Coast and yet continue to enjoy the summer heat in Moz.  Our thoughts and prayers have been with and will continue to be with those of you on the East Coast. 

I am gearing up for another transition.  I have less than two weeks remaining here and I'm afraid the return to PA's winter might be a real shock to my body!  My four months in Moz have passed quickly and I have loved my time here.  My memories of Mozambique will be softly colored by sunlight and smell of the ocean. 

This lovely fellow is a Mangrove Kingfisher.  I love his colors!  The other day, he was flitting around the trees in our garden while I enjoyed the breeze and spent my quiet start to the day. 

 

And of course, I'll miss my little gecko friends.  We have spotted a new little one inside the house, but this fellow below is on our walkway between the carpark and the veranda.  

 

I recently came across a comment by Richard Fuller, who was an engineer and architect in the USA.  He said, "There is no such thing as a failed experiment, only experiments with unexpected outcomes.”  I rather liked that observation. 

Trees

I have four favorite trees.  Jacaranda, Baobab, Acacia, and Gum trees rank among the loveliest trees in my opinion.  It is incredible how the sight or smell of a tree can awaken so many memories.

I may not have listed flame trees specifically among my favorites, but the blooms are too pretty not to share!

Travel in Moz

October has been a busy month!  As I've spent some time on the road here in Moz, I've snapped some interesting pictures.  I wish I could capture the roads in a picture, but you truly have to feel the bumps to know what it can be like!  In some areas, the roads are being repaired very well.  Other sections of road have gaps in the tar ranging from potholes to asteroid craters.  

Regardless of the jolts, bumps, and lurches, a road trip offers a number of fascinating sights.  In the picture below, the middle truck is overtaking the truck on the left.  I'm not entirely certain what the motorbike plans to accomplish.  

Here is a fine example of a bush gas station.  These should only be used in cases of extreme desperation for the sake of your vehicle. 

Often children are sent to collect water for the family, once or even twice a day.  They use the yellow containers to carry them and if they are lucky, they will have a bicycle to help them haul the water.  I think the saddest sight I have ever seen was a little boy using a metal cup to dip water from a muddy puddle into his yellow jug.  

I do not know how these goats got onto the top of the truck!

Butterflies on Bougainvillea

I have always loved bougainvillea.  We have three different colors blooming in our little corner of a garden: purple, a dark reddish pink, and a very beautiful orangey red.  As I sat on the veranda reading, I noticed two butterflies flitting around the blossoms.  

I think every African garden I've been in has a magical capability to slow time.  Maybe American yards have the same affect, but I suppose we don't sit in them long enough to feel the effect.  It takes me back to my childhood to sit on a camp chair in the shade, feel the hot breeze, and believe that this day will last forever.  

The stillness is a little deceptive, because it's only the larger creatures that stay in one place.  Butterflies fly from one flower to another and the wood borer bees disappear and reappear from their holes in the support beams.  Geckos and other lizards scurry around on the support beams, floor, and walls, and dash under the shade of ferns.  Doves, bronze manikins, bee-eaters, orioles,and the occasional coucal visit the birdbath in the corner and retreat to the shade of the bushes.

A garden is a grand place to wake up slowly.  I am savoring the days when I can crawl out of bed, make a cup of coffee, and sit in the quiet.  Oh, it is not entirely quiet, given the school children, air con, and traffic on the road in the distance.  But is a good place to think, observe, or just be still.  I saw a lizard drinking water laying in a puddle under our air conditioner.  I don't think I've seen a lizard lapping water before.

Summer is arriving in Mozambique.  The grass is getting a sun bleached look despite the best efforts to water it.  Temperatures are rising.  Last Saturday, we slowly baked in 36 (96 F) degree weather, with a heat index of 46 (115 F).  Most days are not quite that hot, but the typical temperature seems to be in the thirties.  Mosquitoes are becoming bothersome.  Deltaprim and mosquito nets are once again a part of my life.  I don't mind the mosquito nets though.  I think mosquito nets took the place of a canopy bed in my childhood fairy tale princess dreams.  

And now it is October.  I have thirty nine days more to savor the Southern Hemisphere.  

Goats

Goats can be found in the most unlikely places in Mozambique.

Momma and Baby both getting a drink 

Enjoying the shade at a gas station

Poor things!  I thought the humans were packed into the chapa, but the goats don't even get a seat!

Goats generally seem to end up as a meal.  While in the village last week, we frequently had matumba (goat intestines stuffed with goat meat) and rice for dinner.  Our first night in the village, there was a goat tied to a tree near the village.  The next day he was suspiciously absent.  

Unbeknownst to me, one of our translators told the cooks that I do not eat meat.  For our lunch and supper meals, they would provide beans or eggs for me.  I didn't ask for it, but I will admit to being very grateful.  In this setting, I could have simply not taken meat and no one would have been offended.  It would have been a long few days to only eat bread for breakfast, and rice, ncema, or millet for dinner.  The beans were very tasty and they cooked the eggs well also.  

The one night, Lazaro and Luis started asking me about my diet.  Lazaro could not believe that I would voluntarily eat only vegetables, fruit, rice, and bread.  (He didn't seem to mind having an extra portion of matumba!)  Lazaro said something in Portuguese to Luis with a little chuckle.  Luis translated into English for me, prefacing it with a little explanation.  "He wants to joke with you.  He's saying, 'Is she sure she's really African?'" We all had a good laugh over that comment!  I told Lazaro that he isn't the first to ask me, but I know two other Africans who are vegetarians.  We are certainly a rarity.  

Innocent's Barraca

For a treat and for our friend's Orville and Cheryl's last night in Beira, we went to Innocent's Barraca.  (A barraca is the general word for a tent, stall, or hut in Portuguese.)  Innocent makes seafood like no one else in town.  His establishment is tricky to find at first, but it's worth the search.

The decor is simple, mostly flags from football teams and countries.  The lampshades are baskets turned upside with seashells dangling from the rims.  This last visit, our waitress was a girl from Zimbabwe.

Zimbabwe's flag

Innocent arranges the seafood beautifully.  I admire it even though I don't eat it.  My usual option is fish, but my time in Mozambique is testing my commitment to eating fish as well.  (I don't like it when my food looks back at me, and most of the time, fish is served with entire body still entact.)  However, it is impossible not to appreciate the color and visual appeal of Innocent's food.  

African women amaze me with their ability to carry items on their heads.  Most of these pictures aren't clear because I was taking them out the window of a fast moving vehicle (Dad was driving), but I love them nonetheless.

This is my favorite!

While out in a village, I saw a girl carrying her hoe in from the field, balancing it across her head!  Although I've grown up with images such as these, I continue to be impressed.  I think I'll have to stick with a suitcase with wheels.

Milpark

In our travels last week, we needed to spend a night in Chimoio.  We stayed at the Milpark.

Chimoio is 731m above sea level.  We welcomed the cool evening after a long hot drive.  The road from Beira to Chimoio cannot be described with words or pictures.  You have to feel it to know how bad it is.  Thankfully, improvements are being made.

As you can see, the hotel has a lovely location, complete with peacock, pea hens, ducks, chickens, and even a few turkeys wandering the ground.

The gardens are very pretty.  Mom and I couldn't identify this one tree, though.  If you have any guesses, feel free to leave me a comment!

Mr Peacock wouldn't show off his tail feathers for us

Bird of Paradise

The restaurant had good food and friendly staff.  When we drove back through a few days later and stopped to collect some things left in their storage, they didn't charge us for a cup of coffee while we waited for the storage room key.  I thought that was very kind, especially considering they let us store some things there as a favor rather than a typical practice.  (My dear mother was very considerate.  She assumed that we weren't communicating clearly and left money to cover the coffee anyway.)  If you find yourself in Chimoio and need a place to say, I think this was a good choice.  I personally voted for a little place called the Pink Papaya, but the appeal was mostly in the name.