Paradise Found

Beautiful place, isn't it?

I'm assuming this is a seaslug? In Portuguese, this is called a lesma. I did not want to hold it, but I did get a closer look!

When the tide goes out, there are natural pools formed in the sea. It makes for a delightful place to swim without any waves.

One beautiful feature (of many) of the beach at Itacimirim....we could see the sunset and the moon rise at the same time. The two pictures below were taken the same evening, from almost the same place on the beach. Incredible.

The Start of the Next Step

Well, for the first time, I'm starting on a new journey purely for the purposes of language acquisition. Just after Christmas, I left the States and begin a very long journey to Brazil, where I hope to learn Portuguese. The journey didn't need to be this long, but it was! I booked my ticket with frequent flyer miles, and due to peak travel times, there was one flight to choose from to reach my destination during my preferred time. O.N.E. So, I booked it.

My dear sister and her clan drove me to the airport, with a few stops along the way. From DC, I flew to São Paulo. Once arriving, I needed to change airports, and travel to another city, about 75 kilometers away. My plan was to use Uber and relax with the ease of being transported door to door with my two suitcases. However, I am meant to have adventures in life. The wifi at the airport wasn't working, and without wifi, I couldn't request an Uber. So, I thanked God that I had researched my options, I found a bus that went to the next city, and I bought my bus ticket. Thankfully, I had a long layover, because I needed to wait about an hour for my bus. Also thankfully, I'm in the southern hemisphere in summertime, and my bags and I could wait outside in the warmth.

Long story short, the bus took me to the city of Campinas, which is where the second airport is. From the bus station (rodoviária), I dragged my two suitcases to the elevator and then to the taxi rank. From there, it was about a 15 minute drive to the airport. Once I arrived at the airport, I used my very basic Portuguese to figure out checking in with the help of the Azul staff. Apparently, people seldom book this route. (Hmmm...I wonder why???) Still, my tired brain was much appreciative of the fact that even though most of the airport staff didn't speak English, they were so very patient with me.

On my next flight, leaving at 11 p.m. local time, I'm pretty sure I was the only non-Brazilian. Although everyone was very curious about me, they were delightful and pleasant. I arrived in Salvador at 12:30 a.m. By this point, I wasn't sure how long I had been traveling, but it was more than 24 hours. I needed to contact my taxi driver, which had been prearranged by the family I'm staying with to transport me from the airport to their beach house in a small town further up the coast. Slight problem. The wifi might have been working, but for the life of me, I couldn't get my phone to connect to it, which meant I had no way to call my Brazilian family or to contact the taxi driver. So, I waited. Smiled. Tried to look like a person someone would want to talk to if they were indeed a taxi driver sent to pick up a gringa. After a little while, I saw a smartly dressed man in a turquoise button down (bless his heart, it was about 85 degrees F at 1 a.m.) holding a sign saying "MISS HOPE". Graças a Deus! After a brief introduction, we went to the parking garage, paid our parking, and put my heavy, heavy bags in the boot and off we went. I think I was awake for about 10 minutes. 

An hour later, we arrived in what I assumed was Itacimirim, but really, he could have driven anywhere and I wouldn't have known the difference. Thankfully, the taxi driver is a friend of the family, so I knew I could trust him. With the help of a few family members, we got my bags inside, and without further ado, I turned on my air conditioner, drank a glass of water, and fell into bed.

The Azores

The last year has been a whirlwind. In November, I decided to leave my position at MC. While I enjoyed parts of working there, it wasn't a good fit for me. I was feeling very stressed and my migraines were increasing as a result. More than anything, I really missed teaching. I had some limited opportunities to teach at MC, and it was becoming clear to me that it would be an outlying part of my job.

Shortly after finishing my final semester at MC, I left for a week of holiday with a friend. We had planned the holiday over the summer, and scheduled for school holidays. Sara and I packed our bags and headed to the Azores, an autonomous region of Portugal. We spent a week on São Miguel Island, the largest of the islands in this archipelago. The weather wasn't great by Azores standards, but for those of us escaping winter in Pennsylvania, it was a nice break! It was incredibly humid though! My swimsuit didn't try for the entire week. (I ended up using a hairdryer on it to draw some moisture out before packing it in my backpack!)

Despite some stormy days and incredible wind, we managed to do quite a lot. We went whalewatching, during which we didn't see any whales, but we saw a gorgeous double rainbow over the water!

We booked a few jeep tours, which let us go off the beaten path and enabled a wonderful combination of education and adventure. We had amazing tour guides, who knew their history and biology well.

As you can imagine, I literally took hundreds of pictures, and selecting a few for this post has been difficult! The Azores are volcanic islands, and the volcanic rock in some areas contributes to the green appearance of some of the lakes. Others are the most amazing shades of blue. 

The picture above is overlooking Sete Cidades, which is a gorgeous spot where two lakes, one blue and one green, meet. This picture doesn't do it justice! It is stunning to see.

We rented a tiny little car for one terrifying day. I was the driver. Between the fog and the steep inclines of every narrow road, it was an experience I will never forget! We wove our way from one end of the island to the other, determined to make the most of the experience. Sara and I both realized we are very dependent on Google Maps! Reading a traditional map while zipping around sharp turns is an art form we have not learnt! 

On one of our last days, we tasted fofa, a sweet treat that resembles an eclair. Warm from the kitchen, it was delicious with a coffee!

With each day, Sara and I continued to be amazed at the beauty of this island. The roads are lined with hydrangeas, many of the roads wind around stunning cliffs by the ocean, and the vivid green of the land is almost overwhelming, even in winter. I can only imagine how magnificent this must look in the bright light of summer.

I seldom revisit vacation destinations, but I can see myself returning to the Azores, to explore other islands. It was truly beautiful, and my first taste of Portugal, although it wasn't continental Portugal! It was wonderful to hear Portuguese being spoken. It rekindled my interest in Portuguese, which was first sparked when visiting my parents in Moz in 2012. 

My vacation ended in a flash. Our return was extended by one day due to a missed connection. We arrived back and two days later, I resumed my teaching job with CC, teaching English as a Second Language to adults. Walking into my makeshift classrooms felt like taking a deep breath of fresh air. Despite the uncertainty of what would come next in terms of a permanent job, I knew I had made the right choice.

I.Love.Brazil.

A week ago, we were leaving Newark for Brazil.  It has been an incredible week.

I'm so thankful for the group.  Jan (my academic advisor and the faculty member leading the trip) and her husband Rod are doing a great job as leaders.  The students are a wonderful bunch.  They have really committed themselves to a challenging first week and have bonded well.  We are also blessed with some fantastic Brazilian contacts (through Jan) on the ground who have been the driving force behind the trip.

We spent Tuesday at a prestigious high school, participating in two chapels and spending every break with students of various ages.  Kids in Brazil either go to school in the morning or the afternoon, so we had two different groups of students that we interacted with.  Once they got over their shyness, an incredible mass of Brazilians huddled around each of us, hoping to talk to the "norte americanos".  Normally, one or two of the kids in the group spoke English pretty well and would translate for their friends.  Before too long, we realized that EVERYONE in Brazil knows at least one word in English: selfie!  Almost every student wanted to take a self portrait with us! :) Then of course, we also needed group pictures and on it went...This was repeated at the next two schools on Wednesday and Thursday and Friday morning.

Tuesday afternoon was spent at an orphanage.  One of the teachers, who has been planning our trip, is currently teaching a "community service" class.  He takes students from this upper class high school on a weekly basis to this orphanage to serve the kids there.  It is really cool to see the way these high school students jump right into help.  I think their teacher is a great role model for them.  The picture below is of Joyce and me after an afternoon of face-painting.  Joyce is a high school student who speaks English very well and has a very sweet personality.  I've enjoyed getting to know her.

We all have been getting mass requests to be friends on facebook with the students!  I have added over 100 new friends on facebook since getting to Brazil!  At this point, I think it is easier to add everyone.

Starting on Wednesday, we became the teachers.  We decided on pairs before leaving the USA and were supposed to prepare two lessons that we could teach that were adaptable to a variety of ages and levels. This is quite a challenge for the MC students, none of whom are English education majors.  (Thanks to this trip, a number of them have talked about declaring a TESOL minor though!)  Due to Jan's busy schedule, I worked with the students to help them refine their lessons.  Everyone was a little anxious on Wednesday morning.

All went well!  We got used to the siren of a bell (seriously, their bell at the end of class sounds like an air raid warning) and the fact that everyone would mob us at the breaks between classes.  Each pair taught at least one lesson in the morning and one in the afternoon, in addition to assisting in two other classes and doing a large group lesson with Jan.  My partner Sara and I taught a lesson on body parts, using Simon (Sara!) Says, the song Head, Shoulders, Knees, and Toes, and the song Father Abraham.  We had a great time.

Friday, we returned to the same high school, this time to teach English rather than do the chapel.  It was so much fun to see some of the same kids again.  However, by this point, I had hardly any voice left!

Friday afternoon, we rushed home, packed frantically, and left for a camp outside of the city.  Jan's father built the camp and it has continued to be used for church camps.  This weekend was for youth, which in Brazil seems to mean anyone 15 and older who is still single.  I'll have to write more about the camp later!  :)

little man

I just learned how to say, "I love my nephew" in Portuguese!  Eu amo meu sobrinho!  And he is an adorable little man, isn't he?  

Goats

Goats can be found in the most unlikely places in Mozambique.

Momma and Baby both getting a drink 

Enjoying the shade at a gas station

Poor things!  I thought the humans were packed into the chapa, but the goats don't even get a seat!

Goats generally seem to end up as a meal.  While in the village last week, we frequently had matumba (goat intestines stuffed with goat meat) and rice for dinner.  Our first night in the village, there was a goat tied to a tree near the village.  The next day he was suspiciously absent.  

Unbeknownst to me, one of our translators told the cooks that I do not eat meat.  For our lunch and supper meals, they would provide beans or eggs for me.  I didn't ask for it, but I will admit to being very grateful.  In this setting, I could have simply not taken meat and no one would have been offended.  It would have been a long few days to only eat bread for breakfast, and rice, ncema, or millet for dinner.  The beans were very tasty and they cooked the eggs well also.  

The one night, Lazaro and Luis started asking me about my diet.  Lazaro could not believe that I would voluntarily eat only vegetables, fruit, rice, and bread.  (He didn't seem to mind having an extra portion of matumba!)  Lazaro said something in Portuguese to Luis with a little chuckle.  Luis translated into English for me, prefacing it with a little explanation.  "He wants to joke with you.  He's saying, 'Is she sure she's really African?'" We all had a good laugh over that comment!  I told Lazaro that he isn't the first to ask me, but I know two other Africans who are vegetarians.  We are certainly a rarity.  

Innocent's Barraca

For a treat and for our friend's Orville and Cheryl's last night in Beira, we went to Innocent's Barraca.  (A barraca is the general word for a tent, stall, or hut in Portuguese.)  Innocent makes seafood like no one else in town.  His establishment is tricky to find at first, but it's worth the search.

The decor is simple, mostly flags from football teams and countries.  The lampshades are baskets turned upside with seashells dangling from the rims.  This last visit, our waitress was a girl from Zimbabwe.

Zimbabwe's flag

Innocent arranges the seafood beautifully.  I admire it even though I don't eat it.  My usual option is fish, but my time in Mozambique is testing my commitment to eating fish as well.  (I don't like it when my food looks back at me, and most of the time, fish is served with entire body still entact.)  However, it is impossible not to appreciate the color and visual appeal of Innocent's food.  

The last ten days are flashes of memories of endless dirt coating my skin, staring children, a river crossing in a dugout canoe, African sunrises and sunsets, a pet warthog named Pumba, wall to wall people in a small brick church, mutumbu (goat intestines) and rice, and the Beira Hillbillies (I'll explain that later!).  I scribbled pages and pages in my journal as I sat on a painful reed mat in a small village in the province of Tete.  

I'll write more in the days to come, but for now, here a few glimpses.

Our dinner being prepared.  

A friend had peeled a stick of sugar cane for me to eat.  I love sugar cane, but it was challenging to eat gracefully especially with a group of twenty kids just sitting and watching me.

Dad playing with the kids.

Dugout canoe crossing the Shire River

Watching.  This is a small crowd.  At this point, the other thirty kids were off playing football.  

People of Mozambique

Today is just a picture post.  I'm enjoying my time here and tomorrow is actually officially two months since I landed in Mozambique.  The people I meet are always the highlight of my trips.  

Wildlife, Part 2

Our household wildlife keeps us entertained.  The lizards and geckos and birds may not be as cuddly as a puppy dog, but they do provide us with amusement.  (That reminds me of a little language quirk.  Dog in Portuguese is "cão," and is pronounced "cow."  Fortunately, we don't have many cows in the city, so we can generally assume someone is talking about a canine in Portuguese rather than a bovine critter in English.)  

This morning, Mom and I had breakfast on our veranda to enjoy the morning and the "wildlife."  We were looking at the various little birds that come into drink at our birdbath.  Mom was identifying them for me.  The birdie above is a European Bee-eater.  I think this morning could have been the start of my transition into an amateur birder.  Mom has loved birdwatching as long as I can remember.  This morning, she saw a Pygmy Kingfisher for the first time!  

As I started to write this, I realized I had forgotten the name of this bird.  So, with no context whatsoever, the following words were exchanged:

Me: Who was that little guy up in the branches?

Mom: Zacchaeus?  

I'm still giggling.  

Sunday, Sunday.

This week has gotten off to quite the start.

We began with a celebration.  Our church has a newly completed tin roof.  I can't imagine putting a roof on a building when the first task is to find a ladder.  Dad was finally able to find a ladder in town that could be borrowed/rented for a minimal fee.

We also had several special program elements to our service, with presentations of different certificates of completion and Communion.  Church lasted nearly four hours.  Once church ended, we had the usual chit chat outside of the church.  After that, we headed to the car to go home for lunch, only to see this:

Clearly, lunch was a little bit delayed.  I thought it was wonderful that several of the church men, all in their Sunday best, didn't hesitate to help change the tire.  Eventually, the younger generation became curious and came over to check out the action.  

The spare was put on with minimal difficulty, but the spare needed air because it has a slow leak.  So, we went back to town and stopped at one place to see if the damaged tire could be fixed.  Then we went a second place, because apparently we stopped at the wrong place and needed to go further down the road.  The guys at the second place told us the tire cannot be fixed, but they were able to put air in the spare tire for us.

The only challenge is that Dad was to be leaving early Monday morning to go north for a week of teaching with a group.  Most places are closed on Sundays.  It's really foolish to drive anywhere around here without a spare.  So, he woke up a little earlier on Monday and left the city a little later in order to get a new tire.  A new tire here costs about $290.  Isn't that insane????  We have asked around about the price, but that does seem to the standard price.  It would be possible to get a "used" tire, but given how rough the roads can be, I doubt there would be much benefit.